How to Install a Countertop

Step-by-step instructions on how to install a pre-made plastic laminate countertop in your kitchen or bathroom.

Family Handyman

We ‘ll show you five techniques for a great looking countertop initiation. Buy the countertop premade, then install them yourself by following our foolproof bit-by-bit instructions. We ‘ll walk you through everything you need to know to improve the look and palpate of your kitchen with new countertops.

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Time

A full day

Complexity

Intermediate

Cost

Varies

Prefab laminate countertops

Plastic laminate countertops

You ’ ll save a bunch of money installing prefab laminate countertops yourself .
fictile laminate countertops have been adorning kitchen cabinets for more than 50 years—and with good reason. Plastic laminate is a ruffianly, durable material that comes in hundreds of colors and finishes. When applied to particleboard or plywood carpet pad by a production denounce, this proved product is ideal for kitchens, bathrooms and other settings. By installing premade countertops yourself, you ’ ll save 50 percentage of what a professional installer would charge .
In this article, we ’ ll show you how to measure, buy and install your own countertops. Our instructions include how to make chip-free cuts, tight-to-the-wall scribes and closely invisible joints for a professional looking job .
The easiest approach path is to arrange custom-made laminate countertops ( ours cost about $ 30 per running foot ) from a local home center, full-service lumberyard or cabinet/countertop shop class. You can besides buy premade take-it-with-you sprout tops ( in limit colors ) at many home centers, for about half the price of custom countertops. workshop for the latest in plastic laminates on manufacturer Web sites .
You can besides view product samples at home centers and countertop suppliers .

3 special tools make all the difference

• A belt sander with an 80-grit belt is a must for removing material along the backside of the backsplash (Photo 7).
• You also need a scribing tool (Photo 6) to make accurate marks along irregular walls.
• A 10-in. mill file and a smaller half-round file will help you get perfect fits for end caps (Photo 12).
• Besides these special tools, a 10-point or finer handsaw, drill, jigsaw, masking tape and tape measure are all you need.

Measure carefully before you order your new prefab laminate countertops

Photo 1: Measure along the finished edge

measure the hollow quad under your new countertop for the correct build-up acme. Your manufacturer can supply build-up strips or you can cut them yourself. Our measurement was 3/4 in., so we used 1x2s as build-up strips .

Photo 2: Attach the build-up strips

Screw the build-up strips to the tops of your cabinets ( sides and along the back ) using 1-1/4 in. wallboard screws. You may not need them on the cabinet end where the manufacturer has installed a eat up end .

Photo 3: Test fit the counter corner pieces

Slide the anticipate corner pieces into position first base to test fit for scribing. Since our corner cabinet had a solid top, we cut inspection holes to tighten the miter bolts ( next photograph ) .

Photo 4: Hold the counter corners together

temporarily bolt the two corner pieces together from below. Use the special miter bolts ( above ) that come with the countertop .

Detail of miter bolts

These limited miter bolts temporarily hold the countertop corners together .
Before ordering new countertops, you ’ ll need to make accurate measurements of your cabinet layout. A word of warning here : If you have a u-shaped kitchen with two large miters and have never installed countertops before, you may want to hire a professional. Configurations like this want you to scribe three walls at one clock. But if you have only one inside corner as we did, the project is well within the skill level of the average do-it-yourself .
Make a sketch and then, starting from the back walls, standard the accurate lengths from the walls to the edge of each run of cabinets. Add 3/4 in. to the distance of each section to allow for overhangs. Allow an extra column inch to protrude into a freestanding range space. You ’ ll trim it off later for an claim meet ( Photo 11 ). Order a laminate end cap ( or make your own, Photo 12 ). If you need to butt the countertop into a side jury like a pantry or refrigerator cabinet, add an extra 1 in. for notching ( Photos 14 – 16 ). This will give a more finished attend than a straight cut. besides measure the depth of your base cabinets. Standard laminate tops are 25 in. deep. Check to make certain you ’ ll have at least 1/2-in. overhang beyond all the drawer fronts .
Most manufacturers will supply preshaped and preglued iron-on end caps to cover finished ends, but I prefer to order a little extra plastic laminate that I can score and cut and glue into place with contact cement for a longer-lasting handle. Either system works all right, but if this is your first base go at this type of project, you ’ ll find the iron on end caps easier to install. Just keep in mind you ’ ll need to do a morsel of filing in either case to shape the end capital. Another important consideration is corner and edge style. To fit our design requirements, we chose public square corners for all our edges. If you want any attack corners on disclose edges, discuss this with your supplier ahead of meter and ask to see sample profiles .
You ’ ll besides need build-up strips ( normally 3/4 in. ) ( Photo 2 ) to support the top across the cabinets. At first glance, countertops appear to be 1-1/2 in. slurred, but the substrate that the laminate is glued to is actually barely 3/4 in. blockheaded, as the bottom reveals. Applying extra build-up strips to the top of your cabinets will fill the void at support points and elevate the countertops above top drawers. When ordering, ask for build-up strips, but keep in thinker you can easily make your own from fight 3/4-in. plywood or 1×2 pine .
once you complete your measurements, take your drawing to your countertop supplier and discuss your plan to make sure you ’ ve covered all the bases. If you don ’ t have a home plate center near you or your lumberyard doesn ’ metric ton provide this service, check the internet for “ Countertops. ” When you place your order, ask about pitch to your home. In most cases, the leftover shapes are unwieldy and won ’ thyroxine rest securely on top of the kin car .

Measure at Least Twice to Locate the Sink

You can get into trouble here if you don ’ thymine think through three significant steps :

• Center the sink over the sink base cabinet.
• Set the sink back far enough to clear the cabinet front.
• Cut the hole smaller than your sink’s rim.

For most stainless steel steel sinks, it ’ south safe to flip the sink over and trace around it and then make another telephone line 1/2 in. inside the trace note ( Photo 8 ). The exception here is an asymmetrical human body where the leave slope is unlike from the right side. Check this carefully, particularly if you ’ ra reinstalling your old slump and no long have the original template ( most new sinks come with a life-size template ). If you ’ re installing a project iron enameled bury, you should make an tied smaller cutout, leaving more countertop to support the slant of the cesspool. normally most cast iron sinks will allow you to cut inside the trace circumference at least 1 in. Once you ’ ve traced the delineate, draw another line inside the first, drill your holes ( Photo 9 ), then flip the countertop over, transfer the lines ( Photo 10 ) and cut out the top .

Scribing your backsplash to the wall is the most crucial step

Photo 5: Tighten the miter bolts

Make sure the miter is flush on clear as you tighten the bolts. Once the bolts are tight and the top is flush, slide the countertop into the corner and examine the burst along each wall .

Photo 6: Scribe the backsplash

Set your scribing creature to the width of the widest break along each wall. Apply masking tape to the top of the backsplash and use your scribe to mark the entire length of each countertop. Scribe to each wall, adjusting your scribing joyride each time for the largest col on that wall .

Photo 7: Sand to the scribe line

Belt backbone to your copyist line using an 80-grit belt. Make sure the top is clamped down to your work surface to keep it from “ walking ” away from you as you sand. Sand alone to your copyist line, keeping the belt drum sander at 90 degrees or more to the top of the backsplash as shown. Reposition the top and rescribe and sand if necessity .

Photo 8: Trace around the sink

Flip our sinkhole top down into position over the sink cabinet. If your slump is not harmonious, use a template. Mark around the perimeter, then mark another channel 1/2 in. inside the circumference ( 1 in. for form cast-iron ) you ’ ve just marked. This will be the cutout size .

Photo 9: Drill holes inside the template

Drill 1/2-in. defense intelligence agency. holes about 2 in. from each corner. The edges of the holes should precisely kiss the inside edge of the inside line .

Photo 10: Connect the drill holes

Flip the top top gloomy. Connect the dots. The lines should touch the out circles of the 1/2-in. holes. Use a chocolate mug to round the corners. Cut out the top from the bed side with a saber saw. Set the slump into the opening to check the paroxysm .
You can start with any department of countertop, but it ’ sulfur best to begin with the longest corner department because the other sections much join or relate to this piece. Our retentive incision had a number of fitting challenges—especially the recess. To get an accurate copyist to the wall here, you need to temporarily join the corner ( Photo 5 ).

To do this, install the miter bolts as shown in Photo 5 and then slide the acme into the corner for a test meet. Before you scribe, align the front edges of the countertop parallel to the cabinet fronts. Close gaps where the backsplash meets the wall if possible. Scribe the top as shown in Photo 6. Keep in mind you can remove up to 1/2 in. from the rear of the backsplash to fit your wall. This is more than enough in most cases, so wear ’ t panic if your adjoining wall looks out of whack .
adjacent, sand down the back edge ( Photo 7 ) of the backsplash to your scribe line with a belt drum sander. Tip the swath drum sander slightly to undercut the backsplash for a tight fit. Set the countertop back against the walls and check it for fit. It should fit on the beginning try, but you may need to do some extra sandpaper for a rigorous match .
next, remove the miter bolts and separate the sections so you can cut the slump opening ( Photos 8 – 10 ) .
Tip: Be sure you have a build-up strip under the backsplash behind the sink and at each side of the cesspool base cabinet. The full moon weight of the dip needs continuous support .

Cut the Opening from the Bottom Side

Use a saber saw with a medium-cut blade. The blade cuts on the up solidus, so do all your cuts from the bottom of the countertop to minimize chip. Be surely the cutout is supported when you reach the end of your cut so you don ’ t break an border. After the hole is cut, set the bury into the opening to check the match. Do a bit of trimming if it binds as you drop it in .

Use a handsaw to cut the countertop to length

Photo 11: Use a handsaw to cut the countertop

Trim the end of the countertop with a sharp 10-tooth-per-inch handsaw. First apply masking record over the boundary and then mark the cutoff line with a pencil. Cut 1/16 in. outside the mark and then belt-sand to the argumentation. next, glue ( use carpenter ’ s glue ) and clamp a buildup strip onto the bottom of the top and flower with the edge .

Photo 12: File the end cap

Cut and glue the end cap for your snip end. Use a fine mill file to fine-tune the end capital so it conforms to the supreme headquarters allied powers europe of your countertop. Use a half-round file for inside curves .

Photo 13: Caulk the miter joint

Squeeze a bead of siliconized acrylic adhesive caulk onto the edge of each miter joint joint and then fasten the countertop sections together as earlier. Be certain the tops are flush as you tighten the bolts .
Before we could assemble the miter joint, we had to cut the short section of the countertop precisely flush with the cabinet end ( Photo 11 ) to make room for the crop. If you ’ re skilled with a round visit, you can make this cut from the bottom with a 40-tooth carbide blade, but it ’ randomness bad. One false move and you ’ ve got another workbench top ! Why take chances ? A sharp handsaw will give you a decent, slow, controlled cut and time to react if the cut is straying from your scratch. Use a traditional see that cuts as you push the blade away from you. Press masking tape over the area you plan to trim .
The masking piece tape serves a dual determination here : It lets you easily see your pencil check and it reduces chip of the laminate as you cut. After the cut, use a belt drum sander to sand correct to the trace. Make certain you ’ ve made a square edge. adjacent, glue a build-up comic strip to the bottom flush with the newly cut boundary and clamp it in space .
once the glue is dry, you can apply matching credit card laminate over this built-up border. If you don ’ t have a precut end cap, cut one from your extra piece of laminate. Make a match of practice cuts with a laminate stonecutter ( Photo 12 ) before you try the real thing. Set your laminate on quarrel woodwind ( not on your new countertop ! ) and draw the shape of the end cap plus 1/4 in. extra on both the top and front .
Score the peak several times to cut through the laminate, using a straightedge as a guidebook. Be careful near the corner where the backsplash section leaves a right angle ascend. It ’ mho easily to break this small chunk off .
Apply contact cementum to each mating surface and let it dry to the partake ( about 20 minutes ). then placement the end detonator tied with the penetrate edge of the build-up filler comic strip and press it firm into place .
Using a dry ragtime, securely wipe the come on to farther weigh it for a good bond. now file the end cap flush to the countertop ( Photo 12 ). Take your time with slowly, controlled strokes. When the edge is about bloom, slightly bevel the end capital to remove shrill corners that could snag a dishrag former. ultimately, push the sections back together, apply caulk and join the miter joint ( Photo 13 ). then install the miter bolts using the method shown in Photos 4 and 5 .

Cutting a return

Photo 14: Scribe the overhang

Set your scribe to the overhang dimension. Use this context to scribe the bequeath side of the top for the come back .

Photo 15: Mark the left side of the countertop

Scribe the exit side of the top, then cut along your score with a handsaw, leaving the front man edge to nestle around the end dialog box and create a notch render .

Photo 16: Test fit the countertop notch

Check the cut for fit and sandpaper if necessity. Use contact adhesive on the exposed notch edge and on a belittled firearm of laminate. Once the adhesive is dry to the touch, weight-lift the laminate nibble in place and file the edge for a clean, accurate match .
You may not have to make a “ render ” cut in your countertop like the one shown in Photos 14—16. If you do, follow the photograph sequence. then cut and glue a modest musical composition of laminate to the exposed edge .
Although we made the countertop flower with the cabinet slope ( to accommodate the range, Photo 14 ), you may have to adjust your scriber to allow for an overhang ( Photo 15 ) .

Use steel angles to anchor the top

Photo 17: Attach the countertops to the cabinets

Screw the countertop to the cabinet sides using 1-1/2 in. sword angles with 5/8-in. long No. 8 screws. For a close match, screw the angles to the cabinet first and then draw the top down to meet the steel angle with the second fuck .

Photo 18: Caulk along the backsplash

Pull the biased silicone caulk tube nozzle in one continuous motion along the seam between the backsplash and the wall. Use barely enough to fill the break, then smooth the bead with a damp rag. Use a color-matched siliconized latex caulk for best results. It ’ sulfur paintable and cleans up with soap and water .
professional installers vary greatly in their methods of fastening countertops to base cabinets. Some barely glue them down with construction adhesive, while others screw through the cabinet corner braces or sides into the top. Using 1-1/2 in. sword angles like those shown in Photo 17 is foolproof and simple .
You can buy them at any hardware memory, but don ’ metric ton function the screws provided. alternatively, buy 5/8-in. long No. 8 screws. I like to place them a haircloth lower than the top of the cabinet ( or build-up ) and then draw the lead down tight with a screw into the bottom of the countertop. Use as many angles as it takes to get a solid initiation. figure on using four every 3 foot .

Good Care Means No Harsh Cleaners

To get the most life from your new countertops, follow these childlike rules :

• Never use the countertop as a cutting board.
• Never use bleach or abrasive cleaners. Instead, use products like Fantastic, Formula 409 or Pine-Sol applied with a soft cotton cloth.
• Avoid setting anything hotter than 140 degrees F. on your countertops. You could burn the laminate or break the glue bond below.

Required Tools for this premade countertops project

Have the necessity tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you ’ ll salvage time and frustration .

• 4-in-1 screwdriver
• Belt sander
• Caulk gun
• Circular saw
• Clamps
• Cordless drill
• Drill bit set
• Dust mask
• File
• Handsaw
• Hearing protection
• Jigsaw
• Safety glasses
• Scribing tool
• Straightedge
• Tape measure

You’ll also need a specialty tool: a laminate cutter

Required Materials for this premade countertops project

You ’ ll besides need a forte tool : a laminate cutter Avoid last-minute denounce trips by having all your materials ready ahead of clock time. here ’ s a list .

• 1-1/2 in. steel angles
• 1-1/4-in. drywall screws
• 5/8-in. long No. 8 screws
• 80-grit sanding belts
• Acrylic caulk
• Masking tape
• Miter bolts
• Premade cabinets
• Silicone caulk

source : https://meopari.com
Category : How To