Basic Bricklaying and Cement-Mixing Guide for Beginners

I ‘ve been laying bricks for over eight years. It was n’t comfortable at first base, but with mentorship and rehearse, I soon became an technical bricklayer . Laying bricks is a fortune easier when you know a few crucial tips .

Introduction to Bricklaying

When I first gear picked up a trowel, I did n’t have a clue how to use it. The people who were supposed to be teaching me how to lay bricks were excessively busy with their own work, therefore for a few months, I struggled along, trying to get better on my own.

I floundered until I was able to find person who actually wanted to pass on their cognition of bricklaying, and I spent an stallion afternoon learning the basic techniques. After that day, my confidence soared, and I have n’t looked back since. If you ‘re reading this article, then you ‘re probably in the like identify I was back then. I will try to pass on what I ‘ve learned over the years. I ‘ll make this usher as short circuit and bare as possible because I know from experience that some of the jargoon can sound like mumbo elephantine if you ‘re new to it. In this article, I ‘ll go over beneficial freemasonry tools for beginners, how to mix cement mortar, and how to lay bricks .

1. Brick Trowel

The trowel is what you ‘ll use to lay down the mortar for your bricks and to remove any excess mortar. The best brick trowel to buy, in my impression, is a Marshalltown one. They are durable and normally cost around £25 ( $ 32 ). If you are n’t planning on doing that much brickwork, you can pick up a cheap, used one from builders ‘ yards, flea markets, or DIY retail stores. I think the lowest I ‘ve seen is around £6 ( $ 8 ). Any mark will work if you are n’t looking for longevity. I would go for a plastic handle over a wooden one. I started with an 11-inch trowel that has always served me well, so I would besides recommend that particular size .

2. Spirit Level

A spirit level is used to make surely your visualize is tied ( obviously ) and vertically straight. If you want a trustworthy one, look no further than german manufacturer Stabila. Like Marshalltown, it is pricier than other brands, but that ‘s because you are paying for a quality charge. A 5-ft level could cost you a little as £30 ( $ 40 ) or a high as £80 ( $ 105 ), depending on how durable you want it to be. If you want something a morsel cheaper but even of adequate choice, I recommend a Stanley charge. personally, I would never buy a very cheap level under £10 ( $ 13 ). If your flush is faulty, your work is wrong—it merely is n’t worth it .

3. Jointing Bar

A joint bar is used to add the finish touches to the mortar joints between the bricks. Marshalltown ( American ) or Footprint ( English ) is the way to go with this one. Both companies make some excellent tools. You should be looking at between £7–12 ( $ 10–15 ) for a good jointer. Again, you can get them cheaper, but it depends on whether you want to use them for a long clock .

4. Tape Measure

Your tape measure does n’t have to be anything especial. You can normally pick one up for a copulate of quid/dollars .

5. Lines and Pins

Lines and pins for brickwork are used to argumentation up your bricks and make indisputable they are true. A good set can normally be picked up for £7–£10 ( $ 10–13 ). I have constantly used footprint for my line and pins and have never had a problem. Again, you can get them cheaper, but this is another creature that you need to be of excellent quality .

6. Soft-Bristled Brush

The brush will be used to clean up the bricks and mortar joints once you ‘re done. Like the tape measure, you do n’t have to get the most expensive one out there. however, truly bum ones tend to fray more well .
Mortar-Mixing Basics

What Is the Correct Ratio of Sand to Cement for Masonry?

For general purposes, mix 6 parts sandpaper to 1 partially cement. For heavy-duty projects, I was taught to mix 4 parts sand to 1 contribution cement, but recently, I ‘ve been mixing 3 parts sand to 1 region cement. The ratio you choose depends on the intended habit. For case, load-bearing structures such as foundations require higher sandpaper to cement proportion than non-load-bearing structures. Check out the table below for the most coarse types of mortar mixes, their mix ratios, and their applications. It ‘s critical that you use the lapp mortar mix proportion through to the end of your visualize. otherwise, you will risk having unlike shades of mortar and inconsistencies in potency across the social organization .

Mortar Mix Ratios for Various Types of Mortar

Mortar Type	Minimum Compressive Strength	Cement:Sand:Hydrated Lime Ratio	Uses
Type M	2,500 pounds per square inch	3:12:1	Underground, foundations, retaining walls, driveways
Type S	1,800 psi	2:9:1	Underground, foundations, retaining walls, manholes, sewer walls, brick patios, pavements, and walkways
Type N	750 psi	1:6:1	Above background, general purpose, inside, outside, mild load-bearing, chimneys, soft-stone or low-fired brick masonry
Type O	350 pounds per square inch	1:9:2	Above labor, non-load-bearing, interior

Is Hydrated Lime Necessary?
You do n’t have to add hydrate calcium oxide ( calcium hydroxide ) to your mortar mix, but because it can hold more water than cementum, it makes a big binder, ensuring that the sand and cementum do not separate. Mortar that has lime will death longer, be more bendable ( easier to work with ), less brittle, and less prone to crack and shrivel. however, the more lime you add, the less compaction forte the mortar will have. The mortar will besides dry more slowly .

How to Mix Mortar

Mortar is basically a mix of water, backbone, cement, and sometimes hydrated calcium hydroxide. however, the key is to use the proper ratio of cement to sand for your specific project. Knowing how to properly mix cement mortar is an extremely significant function of the occupation. You have to make sure you do n’t make it excessively wet or besides dry or the bricks wo n’t set by rights .

Ingredients

• Builders sand (soft sand)
• Portland cement
• Water
• Lime, or mortar additive (plasticizer)—optional

Mixing Mortar in a Cement Mixer

here ‘s a bit-by-bit steer on how to mix Type M mortar in a cement mixer :

1. Add a bucket of water (3–5 L) into the mixer and turn it on.
2. Add in the appropriate amount of lime or mortar additive for your project (see the table above). I usually use about a quarter of a bottle of Febmix Admix (common in the UK).
3. Let the water and additive spin for about 30 seconds.
4. Add your first 4 shovels of sand, and let it mix for a few minutes.
5. Check for a smooth consistency. Add more water if it isn’t quite there yet.
6. Add in a shovelful of cement, and let it mix for a couple more minutes.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 until you get the desired amount of mortar.

Mixing Mortar by Hand

here ‘s a bit-by-bit guide on how to mix Type M mortar manually .

1. Find a platform or container to mix the mortar. This can be a wheelbarrow, large plastic tub, or large wooden board (e.g. a sheet of plywood).
2. Measure out 4 parts sand and 1 part cement, and use a shovel to mix it dry on the platform.
3. Make a crater in the middle of the mix, and add a bucket of water and the appropriate amount of lime or mortar additive.
4. Mix thoroughly by shoveling the bottom of the mix to the top and repeating.
5. Add more water as needed to get a smooth consistency.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 until you have the desired amount of mortar.

Mortar-Mixing Tips

• When mixing by hand, always add water TO the mix.
• Do not add too much water at first. Give it a chance to mix. It may seem too thick or crumbly, the water may need several turns to spread around. If it still isn’t looking right, add in a little bit of water at a time.
• To check that the mortar has a good consistency, make a dent in the mixture–it should be able to hold its shape. You can double-check this by shoveling up some of the mix—it should readily slip off the shovel.
• For large-scale projects (requiring several workers), it may be worth renting a cement mixer. Most home improvement stores should be able to rent you one.
• Similarly, using premixed mortar, like Quikrete, MAPEI, Sika, SAKRETE, TEC, or CEMEX, can save you a lot of time and effort. Just make sure to look for the mix ratio. There are different ratios available, so make sure you get the one that suits your project.
• Adding lime or plasticizer makes the mortar more pliable and easier to work with. However, it can make it less strong and slow the drying process.
• There are many dyes available to customize the look of your mortar.
• For structures that need to withstand the elements, add in a waterproofing agent like Seal-Krete, MAPEI’s Aquadefense, or Kryton’s Krystol Mortar Admixture.

Things to Check Before Bricklaying

There are a couple of things that you need to know before you start laying your bricks .

Gauging Your Brickwork

inaugural, you should plan out the dimensions of the finished merchandise, taking into account the dimensions of the bricks you ‘re using and the ask thickness of the mortar joints ( how thick the mortar needs to be between the bricks ). This is called brickwork gauge. A typical ( load-bearing ) mortar joint should be 3/4 in ( 10 millimeter ) thick—for both horizontal and vertical joints ). For most other applications, deoxyadenosine monophosphate long as it is between 1/4–1/2 in ( 7–13 millimeter ), you should be fine. In the UK, a brick is typically 65 mm in height adam 215 millimeter hanker ten 102.5 millimeter trench ( sometimes, they do change though ). With typical mortar joints, that makes the average brick coordinating size 75 millimeter in height adam 225 millimeter long adam 102.5 millimeter deep. obviously, two courses ( stacks ) of bricks would be 150 millimeter high, and four courses would be 300 millimeter high. You should lone make these measurements after you have your first gear course in place. ( You will measure from the clear of your first gear path. )

Checking the Weather Forecast

second, check what the weather will be like for the adjacent few days. Do n’t lay bricks in the rain or cold/freezing temperatures. Any rain that gets into the mortar before it sets will make it run down and stain your brickwork, or worse, destroy the social organization you fair built. Cold upwind will besides delay the fix process. Any frost will besides get into your mortar and cause it to crack ( specially if you did n’t use any additives ). On the construct sites I ‘ve worked at, it has to be 36 ºF ( 2 ºC ) and rising for bricklayers to be allowed to start .

How to Lay Bricks

The steps I ‘m about to show you are applicable for about all bricklaying projects. I ‘m going to use my very first project I built in college as an case : construction a simple brick pyramid ( 10 total bricks ) .

• The bottom course is 4 bricks long.
• The second course is 3 bricks long.
• The third course is 2 bricks long.
• The final course is just 1 brick.

This project should take between 30–60 mins, depending on the weather conditions and how absorbent the bricks are .

1. Spread the Mortar

Spreading mortar is quite difficult at beginning and will take some practice .

• Only pick up as much on your trowel or as you are comfortable with. The more you practice, the more you’ll be able to pick up at one time.
• Spread a generous layer of mortar along the area you intend to lay your bricks.
• Trim off any excess mortar from the sides of your spread (you want it to be only slightly wider than the depth of your bricks), and use that excess to extend your spread further down.

2. Create a Trench in the Mortar

• Angle your brick trowel so that the tip is pointing downwards at a 45-degree angle, and make a trench or “bed” in the mortar by pressing the trowel into the mortar as you move down the spread. This makes sure the mortar will contact the entire surface of the bricks.
• Again, trim off any excess mortar on the sides.

3. Lay Down the First Course of Bricks

• Pick up your brick. Make sure you have a comfortable grip
• Lay the first brick onto one end of the spread.
• Push it down evenly until you get the desired joint width.
• Add mortar to the end of the brick to create a vertical joint.
• Position the next brick so that you have a uniform mortar joint.

4. Check That the First Course Is Level and Straight

• After you have laid four bricks, pop your level on top. You want the bubble to be perfectly central.
• Gently tap the bricks that are not level until you have a level first course.
• Also check that the bricks are lined up with each other. Use your line and pins to make a line that’s flush with one of the bricks at either end.
• Gently reposition any bricks that aren’t flush with the line. Be careful not to tap down as you’ve already levelled them.

5. Lay Down the Next Courses of Bricks

• Continue laying down the second, third, and final courses of bricks using the same techniques above.
• Make sure to stagger the bricks. The vertical joints should line up with the middle of the bricks above it. This is called a half bond.
• Level your brick on top just like you did before.

6. Check That the Brickwork Is Plumb

• To make sure your structure is level vertically, place the level along the face of the pyramid and make sure the bubble is in the middle.
• Plumb the two end bricks and place your level vertically across the 3 so that you can ‘range them in’. There should be no gaps between the brick and the level.

Repeat all of these steps until you have your finished structure .

Add the Finishing Touches

Joint Your Pyramid

once everything is square, level, and plumb, you merely need to add the complete touches. You will need your brick trowel, jointing banish, and easy brush for this .

1. Pick up a small amount of mortar on your trowel.
2. Use your jointer to apply mortar to any vertical joint that needs it.
3. Do the same for all the horizontal joints.
4. Use your jointer to “top and tail” your joints (i.e. tidy up the joints by going over the top and bottom of the vertical joints one more time).
5. Use your soft brush to clean off any stains on the bricks and to smooth out the joints.

Congratulations, You ‘ve just completed your beginning bricklaying stick out. Feels full does n’t it ? This article is accurate and genuine to the best of the writer ’ second cognition. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal guidance or professional advice in business, fiscal, legal, or technical matters. © 2010 Fuller_legend Neil on July 13, 2020 : What about 13-14mm joints for dwarf wall greenhouse ? Darren Reynolds on May 02, 2020 : The follow is the wrong way around : “ … load-bearing structures such as foundations require a higher sand to cement ratio than non-load-bearing structures. ” The table shows, correctly, 4:1 for load-bearing and 9:1 for lighter duty. The ratio is higher for unaccented duty. heavy-duty requires less backbone, not more. chilimboyi Elijah on December 27, 2019 : Thanks for this cognition am learning how to be the best bricklayer in the world Enrique on August 24, 2019 :

Hey mate great hub. Great explanation. I see the proportion is of sand constantly is 1:3 careless the cement to limeratio. My doubt is, say you don ’ metric ton use birdlime in your 1:3 proportion binder : backbone. May you need to top up your desegregate with sand ? Like 1:4 cement : sand. ? I am asking this because I don ’ thymine always have calcium hydroxide or plasticizer available. Ereuka on October 16, 2018 : I would love to train at home bricklaying. 30 years a bricky on September 06, 2018 : Mortar mixes are identical area dependent and if you go to the nhbc incision about mortar you will see a map with all the different exposures. Recommended mortar for severe, ( costal, high elevation etc ) below DPC and lamp chimney stacks : lime : sandpaper 1:1/2:4 1/2, cement with vent entraining plasticizer 1 cement 3 1/2 sandpaper, masonry cement would be 3:1. early categories, sheltered and less sever 1:1:51/2 air entrained 1:51/2, masonry cement 1:41/2. Internal study and thermalite blocks 1:5. here in Brighton I see all to frequently brickwork with joints falling out. There ‘s a house at the goal of my road that was on deluxe designs a few years ago that if you run your finger along the joints it all falls out the render is besides cracking badly due to no doubt week mortar.Some flats in Brighton marina another case had to be repointed. I despair when you read the back of a cement bag and it says 1:5 or you look at mastercrete video 1:6 ! ! ! FFS it would n’t last a class down here. Gary on August 28, 2018 : Your mix is manner besides potent. ACKSON on June 17, 2018 : Exellent Tips Terry on April 12, 2018 : The mortar proportion you speak of is determined by the lastingness of the brick that you are laying for model easy thermalite type blocks would require a very weak mix or a class A engineer brick would be 3:1 sand cement ratio You would n’t need a impregnable mix for a weak brick think using an epoxy resin to stick paper ! the FEB that you mention is a mark mention for a democratic mortar plasticizer which basically is merely an industrial soap with all the good Stuff removed it lubricates the sand & cement particles so they flow over each early which is why you can ‘spread ‘ the mortar, whitout it it ‘s well near impossible to work it you would have to use a sand calcium oxide mix alternatively which should be mixed in a mortar mill a ‘mixer with a central column & two opposing heavy iron wheels ‘ not to be confused with the modern ‘concrete ‘ mixer which equitable has home paddles From a bricklayer who taught apprentices 44 years & still going strong. Stephano on March 24, 2018 : great thing one will try it. R. Day on March 03, 2017 : excellent. Ant on September 25, 2016 : I have just read up on your page and as I have n’t done brickwork since well 8 years ago now I ‘m getting second into it and remembered so a lot precisely from reading your comments Thank man Rookie Mason on August 07, 2016 : I ‘ve used them. The mortar joint spacer ‘s very help. bill on July 03, 2016 : A bang-up aid for the DIY’er is using Masonry Mortar Joint Spacer ‘s. www.BlockandBrickSpacer.com Les P on March 10, 2015 : excellent tips. Done a bit of DIY but this is very useful. Gatsy on February 16, 2015 : Always rehifserng to hear a rational number answer. cacious chitaika on January 26, 2015 : This is trust well. I want to do bricklaying and looking at you inspiration i feel i can do it.Thanks valet. Ana Maria Orantes from Miami Florida on September 17, 2014 : Thank you for sharing your hub. I like it. I am going to use the instructions about the cement. I want to make a r-2 around my fruit ‘s threes in my garden. All I need it to know. It was how to mix the cement. You are fantastic mister fullerlegend. daniel on January 20, 2014 : Hello ive fair started a level one in bricklaying and would like a bit of advice because i want to do well in this barter and might start my own business SHAR NOR from Miami, FL on April 07, 2013 : This is a great Hub I must admit. I thought that such things can not be done without having to go through a technical educate or college but through this, I am indisputable that I can be able to do it. Will give it a try. Thanks. Rick on March 03, 2012 : I found it identical helpful and straightforward. A estimable elementary example. How do I get hold of lesson 2 ? mark on June 08, 2011 : I am going to try to lay a brick B-B-Q pit, I hope your insight comes in handy- I have done a batch of early jobs like frame, wallboard, roofingand indeed on but never brick laying- might you have any suggestions for4 me on this job ? ? ? I will besides let you know when done and how your instructions helped out excessively ! ! JON EWALL from united states army on December 04, 2010 : Fuller_legend Brings back memories many many moons ago when I laid my first brick. Thanks for the memories. Fuller_legend (author) from Stoke-On-Trent, England on November 19, 2010 : You ‘re properly Jon it is, but this hub is aimed at the absolute beginners. I want people to know how to lay a brick before one get into anything like setting out work as setting out your stick out is otiose if you ca n’t lay a brick. besides the project at the end is just a simple single brick pyramid that has no corners so it ‘s fair a shell of getting the brickwork flat, plumb and to gauge, nothing else at this point. There are many types of bonding techniques like you say but i ‘ve used the easiest and most common in this hub to give the readers an easier sympathize. It ‘s basically just a hub about the most basic techniques of laying bricks, hopefully i will get into more detail stuff in future ones. Thanks for recitation and for commenting. JON EWALL from united states on November 19, 2010 : Fuller_legend One of the most significant steps before laying the brick, block or any other unit of measurement is first to layout the convention being used.Always beginning from the outside corner and work rear to an endwall or intersection of another wall or obstcle.There are many types of bonding techniques, each will give a wall a different look when completed.The vertical run needs to be calculated as to the size of the horizontal mortor joint.A masons rule will help determine the coursing heights and joints. Window, door and othe openings and projections must be considered when doing the layout plan. Thanks for allowing me to expand your hub. Deborah Demander from First Wyoming, then THE WORLD on November 17, 2010 : Congratulations on your hubnugget nominating speech. In my previous life, I hand mixed a distribute of cement. It is a long-winded project. But your hub makes it look clear, concise, and about easy. Namaste. Fuller_legend (author) from Stoke-On-Trent, England on November 14, 2010 : Thanks alternate prime, Glad you enjoyed it. I will be writing the following installment hopefully in the next week or thus. Alternative Prime from > California on November 14, 2010 : Congratulations on your nomination Fuller_Legend Brick laying is surely not an easy job but your gradation by footfall guidebook is a enormous asset for the “ Do it Yourself’ers “. Great job in “ Laying ” out an easy education manual of arms to follow. alternative Prime Fuller_legend (author) from Stoke-On-Trent, England on November 12, 2010 : Thankyou for the kind comments Koffeeklatch Gals. I feel like i ‘m up for an academy award or something ha. I ‘m sure you could lay bricks if you very wanted to. It ‘s all about putting the short techniques in concert and being determined to succeed. Thanks for reading Susan Hazelton from Northern New York on November 12, 2010 : fantastic hub. After reading it I feel even I could lay bricks and I ‘m all thumbs. Congratulations on your nominating speech and good luck. Fuller_legend (author) from Stoke-On-Trent, England on November 12, 2010 : Thankyou ripplemaker that ‘s excellent news. I ‘ve loved every infinitesimal of hubpages so far and to have one of my hubs recognised like this is more than one always expected. Looks like lesson numeral 2 might have to be a fiddling sooner than anticipated. Michelle Simtoco from Cebu, Philippines on November 12, 2010 : This is a challenge thing to do and yet you make it sound sol easily. Let ‘s join hands in thanksgiving as I announce your Hubnuggets nomination ! Woohooo … you will receive an electronic mail excessively. Do check ! Read all about it right here : hypertext transfer protocol : //bit.ly/9KP8R0 Fuller_legend (author) from Stoke-On-Trent, England on November 02, 2010 : No trouble wilderness. It ‘s just a case of taking your clock and sticking with it truly. If you do that and follow the techniques above iodine ‘m certain you can lay bricks to a good standard. I hope you give it another fail and let me know how you go on. commodity luck if you do and thanks for the remark.

Oh and congratulations on your first earnings ( good been reading the forum ) I ‘m hoping for a similar result in the future myself. Dan Harmon from Boise, Idaho on November 02, 2010 : While I have laid brick in the past it was never identical much and did not go real well. This is utilitarian – thanks !

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